"I always recommend suede for a person's first pair of custom shoes, In shoes, millimeters matter in ways that would never be noticed in a suit. Customer feedback is also more important because a shoemaker can't feel out fit through the leather in the way a tailor can pinch through fabric. Suede has a little more give and lets you communicate any feedback to improve the next pair, while still letting you live through any minor fit imperfections that might come with a first custom pair."

"I wear a lot more suits than sport coats, so captoes suit my style very well. I have them in several shades of leather and suede. These days, a lot of people dress more casually for work, but want to really dress up for the occasional wedding or night out. It's hard to go wrong with a pair of black captoes and dark suit.

If someone didn't dress up often but wanted to look good when they did, I'd recommend some advice from Cary Grant: "It's better to buy one good pair of shoes than four cheap ones. One pair made of fine leather could outlast four inferior pairs, and, if well cared for, would continue to proclaim your good judgment and taste no matter how old they become.""

"My newest pair are captoes in a lighter shade of llama leather. I wasn't planning on ordering a new pair at this particular trunk show, but Koji showed me this unique swatch and I pounced on this llama like an Andean mountain lion.

They're here just in time for warmer weather, and I can't wait to wear them with lighter suits and summer sport coats."

"I had always wanted a good pair of Cordovan shoes, but Cordovan is so stiff and unforgiving that I ended up getting rid of the few pairs of ready-to-wear I bought. Once I was very confident in my fit with Koji, I ordered my first pair of custom Cordovan shoes. These are in Horween's rare cigar color, but Koji always seems to be able to obtain this unique leather. I finally have my perfect pair of Cordovan shoes in a cigar my doctor is ok with."