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The goal of The Armoury Shoe Collection was to produce a new line of shoes that was uniquely ours. We partnered with Yohei Fukuda, one of the greatest bespoke shoemakers of our generation, to help with the designs. To arrive at something truly unique, we decided early in the process to design all of the lasts and models completely from scratch.
The Armoury shoe lasts are first prototyped in wood. Fukuda-san works on them as if they were bespoke lasts, and we tweak and refine them as we go. Once the shape is finalized, they are size graded and produced in fiberglass for volume production. This way, the lasts are entirely our own, not taken from an existing shoe brand and modified.
It isn't really possible to use our first last, the Hajime last, for loafers. The Hajime was made as a laced shoe last, so the instep is higher and designed to be used exclusively for lace up shoes. Making a loafer on this last would mean the loafers would be too loose at the instep.
For our loafer last, the Jiro, we had some specific requirements we wanted to satisfy compared with the Hajime. We wanted our loafer to be comfortable in its fitting, rounder in its shape but still versatile enough for dressy or casual wear. We also saw an opportunity to make some tweaks to the last to make it more appropriate for people who are lower in the arch, pronate a little, have a wide forefoot and a narrow heel. This is a very common foot profile, especially in Asia, but surprisingly few manufacturers account for it.

Three New Colors

Chocolate Suede Loafer

We sourced our suede from the British tannery Charles F. Stead & Co., one of the most respected tanners of suede leather in the world today. The suede model is a grab-and-go shoe which can be dressed down with chinos or easily transitioned to wear with a sport coat. They sit on an open channel, oiled leather sole.

Espresso Calf Loafer

The leather for our new espresso calf is sourced from the Weinheimer-Leder tannery in Germany, which has been tanning leather for over 150 years. The espresso calf is a nice alternative for those looking for a casual option outside of suede. This model sits on a closed channel leather sole.

Black Calf Loafer

Our black calf also comes from Weinheimer-Leder tannery in Germany. The black version is the most formal of the bunch and greatly compliments grey trousers and navy sport coats. This model sits on a black leather sole with a closed channel.

Shop The Duane Loafer

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