Outstanding Japanese bespoke shoemaker + excellent Northampton shoe factory + quality materials + talented Chinese illustrator + insightful English graphic designer + The Armoury + You
Designed by Yohei Fukuda
We feel fortunate to be able to work with some of the best makers in the world. Over the years, we’ve leveraged those relationships into new and distinctive things that we can bring to our customers – this collection is no different. We worked together with bespoke shoe-maker Yohei Fukuda to design a range of shoes we believe are deserving of The Armoury name.
The idea was to create something that would be reminiscent of mid-century racecars, with a low-slung silhouette and sweeping lines blowing back toward the shoe’s quarters. To compensate for the shallower profile, Fukuda-san widened the ball of the foot to ensure comfort.
We worked with Fukuda-san to create designs and patterns from scratch. To start, we released a small, tightly edited line of classic town oxfords in three styles – a captoe, a semi-brogue, and a wingtip. The idea was to keep things classic and conservative, while relying on the silhouette and some subtle detailing to give the shoes their distinctiveness.
For our oxfords, we went with imitation brogues and captoes. Instead of having the wing and cap made from separate pieces of leather, the decorative detail is purely done with stitching. This design is harder to execute, but, because it doesn't involve stacks of leather, it results in a much sleeker design. It's also more comfortable to wear and causes less creasing across the front of the shoe.
Soon after, we added a split-toe derby. The Jubilee has a soft leather oiled sole with open channel stitching and a 360 degree welt for a sportier look.
We wanted the shoes to be finished in a way that would honor the rest of the design process. Northampton, England seemed like an obvious choice.
We are dedicated to sourcing the finest leathers available, both for consistency and durability. We place a particular focus on finding hides that are soft enough to make the breaking in period faster and more comfortable than other good-year welted shoes.
Soles are made from the best material possible in one of two leather options: oak bark leather featuring closed channel stitching and soft oiled leather with open channel stitching.
Each model is named after an important place in Hong Kong, the birthplace of The Armoury
The Pedder is our most formal option, featuring a stitched faux captoe and swan neck detail. It is named for The Pedder Building in Central, Hong Kong, the first home of The Armoury.
The Wyndham is our semi-brogue faux captoe, which features the same one piece vamp as the Pedder and Gloucester. It is supremely comfortable with its oiled leather sole. Named for the Old Dairy Farm Depot at the top of Wyndham St., which now houses the Fringe club and the Foreign Correspondents' Club.
The Gloucester is our full brogued faux wing-tip. A less formal alternative to the Pedder, the Gloucester brings the same comfort of a one-piece vamp but adds additional details. This shoe is inspired by The Old Wan Chai Police Station on Gloucester Rd. on the Victoria harbourfront.
The Jubilee is our first derby. We used a neater style of derby construction, with slightly wider welt than normal to give the shoe some additional heft at the bottom. This one took a while to get right, with numerous prototypes and iterations to make the balance work, but we're immensely proud of the end result. The model is named for Jubilee St. of the old Central Market, the first wet market for fresh foods in Hong Kong.