The Kobe based husband and wife team speaks to us about their beginnings, what sets them apart in an oligopolistic industry, and their bespoke process.
When asked why eyewear should be a worthwhile investment, Japanese artisan Naoki Nakagawa immediately lights up. “Glasses are the only accessory we can use on our face. It’s not just about fashion, it’s an accessory to complement the face,” he asserts. “Some clients want to look younger, others want to make their face look less wide, so glasses are a great way to improve their appearance.”
Their operation in Kobe, Japan is extremely unique because Nacky is one of the few people in the world who can create a pair of glasses from start to finish. “What we do at Nackymade is quite rare, as all aspects of creating the product are done under one roof. This is different from the industry standard, where different production aspects such as polishing, cutting and designing are outsourced to different companies” he explains.
From their small two-person atelier, Nacky and Mocky create a variety of ready-to-wear, made-to-order, and bespoke eyewear as both sunglasses and prescription glasses.
Nakagawa has been able to master all aspects of the craft because of his curiosity and drive. “I learnt my entire craft by working for several companies in the city of Fukui, the home of eyeglasses in Japan. Starting at the age of 17, I worked for different factories: an optometrist, a design company and even a retail shop to fully understand the eyewear business. There is no school for what it is that I have taught myself. I spent eight years studying the discipline before venturing out on my own.”
Nacky and Mocky spend half their time in Japan creating products and the other half traveling the world to sell them. They particularly favor trunk shows for the opportunity to create personal connections with clients. We've hosted their trunk shows at The Armoury since 2010.
During a Nackymade trunk show, a wide selection of samples are available for clients to browse through. The made-to-order process allows customers to choose their own frame shape, size and colors, with frames made of materials such as acetate, cherrywood and titanium. Signature offerings include a special sunglass lens that is both transparent and reflective, as well as Nackymade’s special dinosaur-shaped temples. (Nacky's a unabashed fan of dinosaurs and has many tattooed on his arms.)
The bespoke process is much more detailed. Nacky will use a measuring apparatus to determine the size of a client’s head, the shape of their nose, and even the distance between their eyes. Time is also spent with the client to better understand how the bespoke frame will be used (e.g. business or leisure) as well as Nacky's considerably informed design guidance as to what will best suit the client.
After the initial ordering phase, Nacky spends a considerable amount of time conceptualizing and then designing a shape that fits the client's needs. An acetate prototype is made for the client's approval before final tweaks are performed and the end product is finally created.
“Making a bespoke piece from scratch is a long and complicated process. We are only a team of two, my wife and me, and we have no other employees. We are always very busy and the products we make are very limited edition. Needless to say, we are proud that Nackymade offers a truly niche experience.”
Nacky and Mocky of Nackymade visit New York twice a year to take orders for made-to-order and bespoke eyewear.
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