The Armoury x The Real McCoy's

The Armoury x The Real McCoy's | A modern Japanese take on classic American workwear, every detail as good as the original

When it comes to vintage Americana, the Japanese have developed an incredibly astute and sophisticated understanding of American style and culture. This relationship stretches back several decades, including cross-cultural influences from World War II, the Tokyo Olympics and the global proliferation of Hollywood. It’s therefore no wonder that The Real McCoy’s has found a cult following by reproducing vintage pieces from these references.

Establishing the brand in Kobe, Hitoshi Tsujimoto has always had an affinity for workwear and military garments. Thus, many of the The Real McCoy’s garments are faithful to a vintage aesthetic. Even the fit, which is developed to remain quite loose, harks back to much more generous silhouette. This dedication and craft is something we admire here at The Armoury, which is why we’ve worked closely with them to develop a two-piece collaboration.

The first piece is a chambray shirt, inspired by Humphrey Bogart in the classic film “The Treasure of the Sierra Madre.” We’ve updated the collar, engineered the armholes to be higher, and tightened the cuffs for a more contemporary look. We also opted for light Japanese chambray instead of the original fabric for added breathability. Construction details such as chain stitching and triple stitching were preserved from the original reference to create a durable garment.

The end result is a sharp-looking casual shirt that can be worn with chinos, jeans and even tailored trousers. The use of Japanese chambray also makes the piece suitable under sport coats for dressier occasions.

The second product is a classic pocket t-shirt made with Zimbabwean cotton. What’s remarkable about the material is its limited supply, since the plant is only harvested once a year by hand. Hand-picking ensures that the cotton is not damaged or mixed with any impurities.

The manner in which the plant is harvested also preserves the fabric’s natural texture. It has a slubby tactility rather than an artificially smooth sheen found in industrial counterparts. The cotton’s extra-long staple also makes the fabric softer and stronger, and absorbs dyes quickly and deeply. These special qualities give the fabric a nice, hefty texture.

We’ve designed the collar to be kept quite tight, with a smaller hole that is also ribbed for extra reinforcement, while the sleeves possess a 1950s look that can be rolled up. A pocket has also been added where one would usually place a soft pack of cigarettes. As a dependable, everyday shirt, The Armoury x Real McCoy’s pocket t-shirt makes for a trusty staple. Style it with a pair of chinos, or in the spirit of something American, a signature pair of blue jeans.

Shop our full collaboration with Real McCoy's here.