The Armoury Private Label Shirt
What makes our made in Italy shirts so special?
The Armoury’s private label shirts are a labor of love. Having tried out a slew of shirtmakers over the years, it took us some time to land on a maker that was able to create a shirt that fit both our aesthetic and construction needs. Our search ultimately lead us to a small factory in Naples that specializes in creating custom made shirts by hand.
Many would argue a shirt is a shirt. We would say that’s true. Except when it isn’t. So what is the difference between a $75 shirt and a $425 shirt? And are those differences substantial enough to justify the costs?
At a base level, this question requires an understanding of the fundamental components of a shirt and how they are assembled. Fit, details, and intangible elements also add value to the equation. So what do The Armoury private label shirts offer in this realm?
Our shirts start with over 9 hand sewn operations - some of which add durability and flexibility in construction or fit and others that are simply completed for the beauty and craftsmanship. Armholes and collar bands are attached by hand to allow for easing in excess fabric. This “ease” ultimately leads to a garment that is more flexible and shapely - something that’s difficult to achieve with a sewing machine. Buttons are sewn in the “crow’s feet” manner and hand sewn bartacks are added to the sleeve gauntlet for durability. Lastly, the placket, front yoke, gussets, and bottom hem are all sewn by hand to demonstrate the skill and attention to detail of the factory. Although these handsewn operations may not offer as much in terms of fabrication, they are elements that speak to a shirt constructed with an emphasis on quality.
Many would say the most critical components of a dress shirt are the collar and cuffs. These are the elements of a shirt that are always visible and the ones that frame your face up top and allow for movement throughout the day. We’ve designed two collars, both of which have soft interlinings and a generous but flattering shape. One is a 3.5 inch spread collar and the other a 3.5 inch buttondown, each with the distinctive roll that Neapolitan shirtmakers are known for. Additionally, cuffs are cut with a soft curve resembling an open “U” shape when laid flat, which results in a conical shape when buttoned. This conical shape allows for better movement as the cuffs match the angle created from your narrowing forearm and wrist.
To top it all off, our private label shirts are finished with scalloped mother of pearl buttons so that they button with ease, a reinforced gusset for strength, and a fit that we’ve designed with high armholes to give a slim and comfortable feel.
The Armoury offers our private label shirts both ready-to-wear and bespoke.