Ring Jacket: A Detailed Approach to Suiting
Ring Jacket | Japanese suiting that stems from the need to make ready-to-wear garments with bespoke qualities.
Making ‘Off-The-Rack’ Look Bespoke
As the story goes, Fukushima-san, the founder of Ring Jacket, was an insurance salaryman who was disappointed that he could not find ready-to-wear suits that could match those of his father. So, frustrated by the existing quality of the market, he set out to make his own suits. This was back in 1954.
While Fukushima-san is no longer with the company, Ring Jacket adheres to the mission of creating ready-to-wear garments with a deep technical understanding and commitment to precision associated with that of bespoke tailors.
Sasamoto-san, the company’s head of the wholesales division, has spent 16 years with the brand watching it evolve from a hidden gem to a well-loved favorite of a global audience.
At a recent trunk show at The Armoury, Sasamoto-san, head-to-toe in a double-breasted pinstripe suit, explained why Ring Jacket resonates with so many men.
“One of the ways we make ready-to-wear clothes feel more bespoke is by paying attention to the areas that other manufacturers typically ignore,” says Sasamoto-san.
“For example, we add more shape and fabric in areas like the sleeve heads and shoulders. This makes the shoulder area rounder and easier to move. We also do small adjustments, like offsetting the seam by two centimeters in the shoulder area. By making this little maneuver, it allows the fabric in the arm area to move and adjust with the wearer, with very little resistance.”
The Importance of Details
Ring Jacket focuses on small details that are often overlooked. For example, the sewing machines in Ring Jacket factories are operated at speeds far slower than industry standards. The intention is that by modulating the speed of the machine according to the different areas that tailors are working on, they can mimic the tension and density that traditional hand-stitching possesses.
“We focus on doing things slowly. By maintaining a slow speed, you can have a conversation on the factory floor. Usually you can’t hear people speaking on a factory floor, but with us you can!” he confirms.
Another overlooked area in which Ring Jacket focuses on is the clean fit. Before stitching pattern pieces together, Ring Jacket typically runs its fabrics through a steam machine to stabilize the fabric and eliminate any wrinkles. This process is crucial to creating a seamless menswear garment that is expertly constructed.
Ring Jacket often buys dead stock and vintage fabrics from mills they work closely with, such as Luciano Barbera, making for interesting custom selections at their trunk shows.
“Our vintage fabric purchases vary each time. Recently, they’ve included English mohair and solaro, but two years ago we bought some from Italian mills. We are a fan of these materials. While newer fabrics come from modern machinery that tends to push fabric out in an incredibly fast rate, older fabrics come from more traditional looms. This means that the fabric is often thicker, with a more interesting texture,” explains Sasamoto-san.
Why Ring Jacket?
Ring Jacket hits the cross section of affordability and quality. The Armoury has an exclusive collection of “The Armoury by Ring Jacket” models. The Armoury by Ring Jacket sport coat models start at around $1200. Each model is influenced by both the rich history of Ring Jacket as well as The Armoury man’s classic style. The collection is available both online and in-store.
Made-to-order and made-to-measure options are also available for Ring Jacket.
Attend The Ring Jacket Trunk Show
While Ring Jacket MTO is available year-round, Ring Jacket MTM is exclusively available at their trunk shows where clients can peruse their latest vintage and dead stock fabric selection.
For NYC, please email firstname.lastname@example.org or call 646-613-7677 to schedule an appointment. For HK, please email email@example.com.